Our wonderful Cusco guide, Ramiro Yabar, took a few photographers deep into the headwaters of the Amazon River, the Madre de Dios, eventually arriving at the Manu Wildlife Center, tucked away in the remote Manu National Park. Getting there from Cusco without any air service was a huge ordeal but fortunately there were two lodges, one of which was the Cock of the Rock Lodge – a must see because of its namesake lek. The Manu NP lived up to its legend, providing us with colorful wildlife not normally seen. The downside to Peru’s lowland rivers are wildcat miners who are poisoning the fish and other wildlife dependent on its waters. As roads are punched in for the miners, the loggers are on their heels. The same sad story.